A tambour hook is a specialized tool used in bead embroidery and tambour work characterized by its small, bent tip which resembles a crochet hook. It enables the creation of loops and attachment of beads or sequins by catching the thread from the fabric’s backside and pulling it to the front. Various ethnic embroidery styles such as Central Asian Suzan embroidery employ this technique across Asia and Europe.
What Is a Tambour Hook?
A tambour hook is a specialized crochet-style needle used in tambour embroidery to create fast continuous chain stitches. It operates by piercing the fabric from above and catching the thread below, contrasting with regular embroidery needles.
Named after the French word for “drum” the fabric is tightly stretched on a frame allowing smooth stitching. Tambour hooks are favored in Luneville embroidery. A technique employed by high-end fashion houses for intricate beading.
How a Tambour Hook Works
The tambour hook uses a simple yet efficient looping technique:
- The hook enters the fabric from the front.
- It grabs the thread underneath.
- It pulls up a loop to the top.
- A twisting motion locks the loop.
- Repeating this creates a continuous chain stitch.
If the motion is done correctly, the stitches appear perfectly even smooth and professional. Once you learn the rhythm, the tambour hook is significantly faster than needle embroidery, sometimes up to ten times faster.
Parts of a Tambour Hook
Even though the tool looks simple, each part plays an important role:
1. Handle
The handle is usually made of wood or metal.
Wood handles are lightweight, comfortable and popular with beginners.
2. Interchangeable Hook Needles
Tambour hooks come with multiple needle sizes. Finer hooks are used for delicate fabrics, while thicker hooks work better for linen or cotton.
3. Locking Screw
This screw holds the hook securely in place. A strong lock prevents the needle from wobbling or slipping during stitching.
4. Hook Tip
The tiny hook on the needle catches the thread underneath the fabric. A smooth sharp hook ensures clean stitching without snagging.
What Is a Tambour Hook Used For?
Tambour embroidery is worked on embroidery fabric stretched tightly in a frame. This is then attached to a lap or floor stand to allow the embroiderer to use both hands. The fabric should have a large enough weave for the hooked needle to pass through without catching as it comes back to the front. Sometimes tulle fabric is used for this type of embroidery.
A variety of embroidery threads will work for this type of embroidery, but stranded threads can prove tricky.
Chain stitch embroidery using a tambour hook is worked from the top surface of the fabric, with the right side of the work, facing the embroiderer. However, when a tambour hook is used for beading and sequins, the beads are threaded onto the working thread, and the design is worked from the backside, with the wrong side of the fabric marked and facing the embroiderer.
With either technique, the working thread is kept on the underside of the fabric. After pushing the hook through, you catch the thread in the hook and pull it to the front. There is a bit of a learning curve when working with a tool like this, but after some practice, it can be a speedy process.
Mary Corbet of Needle ‘n Thread has an excellent video tutorial for working with a tambour hook for chain stitch embroidery. She shows the tool in action on an open netting so you can see what’s happening both above and below the surface.
Benefits of Using a Tambour Hook
Why do so many professionals prefer tambour embroidery? Here are the biggest benefits:
Extremely Fast Stitching
Once mastered, tambour embroidery is much faster than hand stitching with a needle. Large motifs that may take days with traditional techniques can be finished within hours.
Precision and Neatness
Tambour hooks create uniform stitches that look clean and professional. The backside of the fabric remains tidy, and the front appears polished.
Ideal for Beading
No other hand tool matches the speed and control of a tambour hook for bead and sequin work.
Perfect for Delicate Fabrics
The tool allows intricate work on fragile materials without tearing or stretching the fabric.
Versatility
One tool can be used for:
- thread embroidery
- beading
- sequins
- lace-making
- couture embellishment
- Creates Lightweight Embellishment
Tambour embroidery adds texture without making garments heavy perfect for bridal gowns and couture pieces.
Types of Tambour Hooks
You’ll find different types based on your needs:
Standard Tambour Hook
Best for beginners and basic thread embroidery.
Lunéville Hook
A refined version used in couture houses for beadwork. Its extremely fine needle makes it perfect for tulle and mesh fabrics.
Multi-Size Hook Sets
These come with different needle sizes, allowing you to switch depending on your fabric and thread type.
Where to Find Tambour Hooks and Supplies
Tambour hooks can be difficult to find in your local needlework store, but Laces carries a wide selection of specialty tambour hooks in varying sizes and materials. A quick search online will turn up quite a few options as well.
Most tambour tools have a set screw that allows you to remove the needle to either replace it when needed or to change to another size. A selection of needle sizes typically comes with the tool, but often there are even more sizes available.
Other tools have just one needle permanently attached. Some tools have a different type of hook system, similar to those used for rug hooking.
Conclusion
The tambour hook is an essential tool for anyone who wants to explore couture embroidery, decorative stitching, and luxury embellishment. Its ability to create flawless chain stitches and attach beads with incredible speed makes it a favorite in fashion studios and craft rooms worldwide. Whether you’re a beginner or an aspiring couture artist, learning how to use a tambour hook opens up a world of creativity, elegance and artistic expression.
FAQs
What is the purpose of a tambour hook?
To create fast chain stitches and attach beads or sequins with precision.
Is tambour embroidery difficult?
It feels tricky at first but becomes easy with practice.
Can I use a tambour hook on all fabrics?
It works best on lightweight fabrics like tulle, net, and organza.
Is a tambour hook good for beginners?
Yes! Start on net fabric and practice basic stitches.
Do I need special thread?
Cotton, silk, and beading threads all work well.
